London’s oldest restaurant is a noble and unapologetic slice of quaint, quintessential Britishness where you are always guaranteed a warm ‘good morning’…
Location
Wiltons is situated in Jermyn St London in the heart of St James’.
Style and Character
From its origins as an oyster stall in Haymarket to almost being destroyed during the Second World War, Wiltons, London’s oldest restaurant promises the finest in old-school dining. An education in quintessential Britishness, head chef Daniel Kent offers everything from meat-filled carving trolleys to lobster omelettes. Wiltons has unapologetically stuck to its roots and we are delighted it has. Their seafood cocktail is a timeless classic.
Wiltons is unmistakeable, remarkable and timeless. A London institution dating all the way back to 1742 (making it the oldest in the capital), Wiltons started life as an oyster stall in Haymarket, a century or so later it became a restaurant, and then another 100 years on it was almost destroyed during the Second World War. Legend has it that a Luftwaffe bomb landed just around the corner in Piccadilly, and the then proprietor Mrs Bessie Leal removed her apron and informed her customers that she would be living the capital at the soonest opportunity and was anyone interested in buying the premises. At the counter, a merchant banker called Olaf Hambro said he would have it, and that Mrs Leal should add the cost of the restaurant to the bottom of his bill. That’s the kind of place Wiltons was… and still is. It might have changed venue a few times over those 276 years (with the odd lick of paint and a few paintings swapped around to keep the regulars on their toes), but it remains quintessentially British, imposing, unapologetic and where you are always welcomed with a cheery and charming “good morning”.
There is a dress code that asks gentlemen not to wear short sleeved shirts, shorts, open-toed shoes, sportswear, graphic tee shirts, or hooded tops.
I happened to be in Jermyn St and called in to see if they had a table. It only took a few minutes to find me a setting although it was busy. I was ably looked after by Filipino Salamone quaintly called the Oysterman.
Food and Drink
Traditions run deep, at this infamous St James spot. Think hefty grilled meats, Wiltons’ renowned fish and other seafood, and of course the oyster bar.
As befits an older than old-school establishment, the menu is a paean to the culinary classics, overseen by masterful head chef Daniel Kent. But before you get to the menu, the waiters will tempt you with a ceremonial carving trolley flypast. Depending on the day, you may be presented with a roast leg of Romney Marsh lamb, Blythburgh pork, Rose County beef, or Cherry Tree Farm gammon, and it is hard to say no. But before you get to the main course, start things off with half-a-dozen West Mersea Native oysters, dressed crab or the quite outstanding seafood cocktail (we told you Wiltons was old school). If you are tempted by the trolley, the grilled Dover sole or wild Scottish salmon would give Scott’s a run for its money. If game is your thing, the Sika deer with pumpkin and cavolo nero is good, but the grouse is better. Or do yourself a little favour and try Wiltons’ lobster omelettes. You’ll thank us. But do leave room for dessert… specifically the bread and butter pudding which Wiltons may or may not have invented. Then sit back, loosen your belt and try not to fall asleep.
On the day of my visit I chose not to have the roast as it was a a very warm day. Instead I had the special which was Scottish langoustines which had arrived that morning and cooked by the chef.
I followed this with one of my favourites, Lamb kidneys and bacon. This was served with mushrooms and a lovely pot of potato chips. Sadly kidneys are very difficult to find on a menu. They were cooked to perfection. I was due to have this with a tomato salad but declined this as not one of my go to dishes. I had a side of Jersey Royals which I always go for due to their short season.
I chose not to have dessert nor wine. However I did ask for the wine recommendation had I wanted to indulge. To match the langoustines it would have been Chablis and the kidneys a Pinot noir.
Verdict
Wiltons, it has to be said, is not for everyone. It is a serious restaurant that takes grown-up dining and hospitality very seriously. The food is simple good cooking with great ingredients. You will be rubbing shoulders with a snooty set who probably consider certain members of the Royal family to be riff-raff. Don’t let that put you off. WIltons is a London landmark that delivers the highest standards. It has wilfully and wonderfully refused to move with the times. It makes no apologies and neither do we.
